City of Naples: history and art

Naples
Naples
Naples
Naples
Naples

Located in the Campania region in Southern Italy, Naples is a major port city at the heart of the Mediterranean area. It is the third-largest city in Italy and boasts a flowing downtown area full of life and energy, offering visitors a fascinating glimpse into its rich past alongside numerous iconic attractions.

The artistic and monumental heritage of Naples includes more than ten museums, large art galleries, an aquarium, botanical gardens, four castles, five ancient city gates, two royal palaces, parks, theaters, numerous squares, and libraries. In addition, there are approximately 200 churches, many of which are of great architectural, historical, and artistic importance; some are built upon ancient pagan temples, while others contain catacombs of remarkable interest.

Naples can be considered an open-air archaeological museum, with its Greek and Roman walls, the excavations of San Lorenzo and the Duomo, the Cardo and Decumano, the antique shops, and the statue of the God of the Nile. Throughout the city, it is still possible to find inhabited buildings adorned with Greek-Roman stone artifacts, columns, and decorations showcasing the enduring legacy of ancient civilizations.

The origins of Naples trace back to its foundation as Parthenope or Palaepolis in the 9th century B.C., subsequently re-established as Neapolis (New City) in 470 B.C. Sections of the Greek city walls, excavated since World War II, and the remains of a Roman theater, cemeteries, and catacombs offer an illustrative glimpse into its early history.

In the 6th century A.D., Naples was conquered by the Byzantine Empire and became an autonomous Duchy, later associated with the Normans, Swabians, and the Kingdom of Sicily. Remnants from this period include Castel dell’Ovo (Egg Castle), one of the most important surviving structures from the Norman era, although it was remodeled several times over the centuries.

With the Angevin (French) dynasty (1265-1442), Naples became the living symbol of prestige, dignity, and power. The Angevins initiated an influential relationship with Western art and architecture, particularly French Gothic, integrated with earlier Greek and Arab elements. Notable architectural landmarks from this period include the Santa Chiara monastery, the convent of San Lorenzo Maggiore, the churches of Donna Regina and Incoronata, and San Domenico Maggiore.

From the 15th to the 17th century, Naples was governed by the Aragonese, who remodeled the city defenses and street pattern, and constructed the Castel Nuovo (New Castle) in the Tuscan style. During Spanish rule, the city saw the construction of the Royal Palace, built in 1600 along one side of Piazza del Plebiscito, marking a period of architectural and cultural growth.

From 1734, under the government of the Bourbons, alongside Paris and London, Naples emerged as one of the major capitals of Europe. Important buildings of the 18th century include the Albergo dei Poveri, the National Archaeological Museum, the Certosa on the hill of San Martino, and the elegant Villa Pignatelli.

But Naples is not just a city of history; it is also a hub for contemporary art. More specifically, in the 1960s it became a key center for modern art, thanks to private gallery owners like Lucio Amelio and Lia Rumma. Today, two private foundations based in historical buildings in the city center keep fostering the contemporary artistic expression, namely, the Fondazione Morra Greco in the 16th-century Palazzo Caracciolo d’Avellino and the Fondazione Morra, which opened a museum dedicated to Hermann Nitsch in a former electricity plant.

 

Since 1995, Naples has been hosting an annual Christmas project in the main square of the city, i.e., Piazza del Plebiscito, where monumental works conceived by artists like Mario Merz, Anish Kapoor, Jenny Holzer, and Richard Serra have been installed. This tradition has turned the square into a dynamic canvas for contemporary art. Another institution for contemporary art is the Palazzo delle Arti Napoli, located in the Chiaia district. Moreover, an important museum has been established in the city center in 2005, referred to as the MADRE (Museo d’Arte Contemporanea Donna Regina Napoli), which hosts international exhibitions and houses a stunning collection of permanent artworks by Richard Serra, Sol LeWitt, Jeff Koons, and others.

The artistic project of the underground stations in Naples represents one of the most intriguing Italian experiments on the permanent integration of contemporary artworks in an urban context. An illustrative example is given by the first stations of the Line 1 of the metro: Museo and Dante (designed by Gao Aulenti), Salvator Rosa and Materdei (designed by Alessandro Mendini), Cilea, Quattro Giornate, Vanvitelli, Rione Alto, all adorned with colors, mosaics, installations, sculptures, and photographs. In the last few years new stations have opened, which were designed by relevant international architects like Alvaro Siza, Dominique Perrault, and Studio Fuksas. These include Università, Toledo, Garibaldi, Municipio, and Duomo. In particular, the Toledo station was described by The Daily Telegraph as “the most impressive underground station in Europe”.

What’s worth a visit?


Castel dell’Ovo (Egg Castle)
Castel dell’Ovo is one of the most iconic landmarks of Naples, as well as the city’s oldest castle, and has a rich and layered history. It was built by Romans in the 1st century B.C., and, more specifically, by Lucius Licinius Lucullus. Originally it was a villa known as Castellum Lucullanum, but it was later repurposed as a fortress in the declining years of the Roman Empire. The name comes from a medieval legend that the Roman poet Virgil placed a magical egg in the foundation of the castle to support it, so that the safety of the castle was tied to the safety of the egg. The structure, as it stands today, owes much to the Normans. When the Normans conquered Naples in the 12th century, they recognized the strategic importance of the site, and transformed the existing structure into a fortified castle.

Castle
Castle

Napoli Sotterranea (Underground Naples)
Napoli Sotterranea is a fascinating network of tunnels, caves, and ancient structures that lies beneath the streets of Naples. It was originally carved out by the Greeks for water storage, and later expanded by the Romans to create aqueducts and cisterns. The tunnels were used by the population to find shelter from the American and British bombing during the World War II. The entrance is located next to the Sansevero Chapel.

Napoli Sotterranea (Underground Naples)
Napoli Sotterranea (Underground Naples)

Castel Nuovo (New Castle)
The Castel Nuovo, also known as Maschio Angioino, is a medieval castle built by the Angevins, specifically commissioned by Charles of Anjou in 1279 as a royal residence and a defensive stronghold. At that time, Naples was the capital of the Kingdom of Naples. During the reign of Alfonso I of Aragon in the 15th century, the castle underwent significant renovations, which gave it the Renaissance and Gothic features seen today. The Palatine Chapel, with its frescoes and intricate Gothic details, and the grand Hall of the Barons, where important political and social events were held, are among its key highlights. It is close to the city port and Municipio square, and it can be reached in 25 minutes from the Conference Center.

Castel Nuovo (New Castle)

Monastero di Santa Chiara (Santa Chiara Monastery)
The majestic Monastero di Santa Chiara was also built during the Angevin domination by Robert of Anjou between 1310 and 1340. The purpose was to strengthen the religious and political prestige of the French. The complex includes a Gothic-style church, a cloister, and an archaeological museum. The church, with its austere, yet elegant, design, was heavily damaged during the World War II, but later restored. The Monastero can be reached from Spaccanapoli, and it is very close to Piazza del Gesù Nuovo (New Jesus square).

Monastero di Santa Chiara (Santa Chiara Monastery)
Monastero di Santa Chiara (Santa Chiara Monastery)

Cimitero delle Fontanelle (Little Fountains Cemetery)
The Cimitero delle Fontanelle is located in the Rione Sanità district and is a very impressive ossuary reflecting the relationship of Neapolitan people with death and spirituality. It contains the remains of 40,000 people dead by plague in the 17th century or cholera in the 18th century. Locals pray to the anonymous skulls, leaving flowers and candles as offerings, in the hope of receiving favors and protection in return. Some skulls are believed to be magical. According to the legend, if a visitor touches one of these skulls and his/her hand becomes wet, he/she will be lucky and in a good health. Among the magical skulls, the Donna Concetta’s one is assumed to help women find a good husband and become pregnant. The cemetery can be reached by taking the Line 1 of the metro and stopping at the Materdei station.

Cimitero delle Fontanelle (Little Fountains Cemetery)

Quartieri Spagnoli (Spanish Quarters)
The Quartieri Spagnoli, situated at the western end of Spaccanapoli, is an important district in Naples, known for its narrow streets, colorful murals, and lively atmosphere. This district was built in the 16th century during the Spanish domination to house the Spanish troops in charge of controlling over the local population. One of the most iconic sights of this district is the Diego Armando Maradona’s mural. Maradona is considered as a demigod in Naples, as he led the city soccer team to victory in the Italian championship in 1987 and 1990. Soccer is more than just a simple sport in Naples – it is a passion shared by every local.

Quartieri Spagnoli (Spanish Quarters)
Quartieri Spagnoli (Spanish Quarters)
Quartieri Spagnoli (Spanish Quarters)

Cristo Velato (Veiled Christ)
The Cristo Velato is a well-known sculpture crafted by Giuseppe Sanmartino in 1753, housed in the Sansevero Chapel. This masterpiece of Baroque art represents the body of Christ after the crucifixion, and is considered one of the most revered treasures of Naples. It is impressive because the thin, delicate marble veil gives an astonishing illusion of transparency. The Sansevero Chapel can be reached from the San Domenico square along Spaccanapoli.

Spaccanapoli
Spaccanapoli is a 1 km-long straight street that divides a portion of the city into two parts. It is a typical Neapolitan way, very noisy, very crowded, with the merchandise of the shops invading the sidewalks. It extends from the Spanish Quarters to Forcella, and crosses important places like New Jesus square, San Domenico square, via Duomo, San Gregorio Armeno (where home-made Christmas symbols are sold during Christmas). New Jesus square can be reached from the Conference Center in half an hour.

Spaccanapoli

Villa Comunale (Public Gardens)
The Villa Comunale is a beautiful seaside park in Naples, stretching along the city scenic promenade. Originally designed in the 18th century as a royal garden, it was later opened to the public and remains an amazing and popular destination for both locals and visitors. The park features wide paths shaded by ancient trees, elegant fountains, and historical statues. Moreover, there is the Anton Dohrn Aquarium, one of the oldest marine research centers in Europe. The park also allows enjoying beautiful views of the Gulf of Naples and of the Mount Vesuvius. It is just a 10-minute walk from the Conference Center.

Galleria Umberto I
The Galleria Umberto I is a magnificent 19th-century shopping arcade in the heart of Naples, combining an elegant architecture with a sparkling atmosphere. Built between 1887 and 1890, it features a wonderful glass dome, intricate ironwork, and marble floors decorated with mosaics. It is located opposite the San Carlo theater and near Piazza del Plebiscito. From the Central Station of Naples, it can be reached by taking the Line 1 of the metro and stopping at the Toledo station; from the Conference Center, it is just a 20-minute walk through the lively streets of Naples.

Galleria Umberto I
Galleria Umberto I

Places to visit outside Naples


Pompei (Pompeii)
Pompei is a well-known ancient Roman city, famously preserved by the catastrophic Vesuvius eruption in 79 A.D. This site was buried under volcanic ash and pumice, which safeguarded buildings, temples, streets, baths, amphitheaters, frescoes, and other objects for nearly two millennia. Many vivid details of the everyday life of Romans can be observed. Countless tourists are attracted from all over the world. The Pompei ruins can be visited by taking the Circumvesuviana train at the Central Station of Naples and disembark at the Pompei Scavi station.

Pompei (Pompeii)

Positano, Amalfi, Sorrento
Positano, Amalfi, Sorrento are wonderful and charming seaside towns located on the southern side of the Sorrento peninsula (the so-called Amalfi Coast). The colorful cliffside houses, views, and coastal beauty are breathtaking. These towns, also famous for their lemon-based products, can be reached by taking the Circumvesuviana train at the Central Station of Naples and heading to Sorrento.

Positano, Amalfi, Sorrento

Ischia and Capri islands
Ischia and Capri are two beautiful islands in the Gulf of Naples. Ischia, the larger of the two, is well known for its thermal SPAs, lush gardens, and volcanic landscapes. It also offers attractions like the Aragonese Castle, the beaches of Maronti, and the picturesque Sant’Angelo village. Capri is famous for the Blue Grotto, the chic boutiques, the elegant piazzas (squares), and the Faraglioni view. These islands can be easily reached by taking a ferryboat or a hydrofoil at the port of Naples “Molo Beverello”, which is a 30-minute walk east from the Conference Center.

Ischia and Capri islands
Ischia and Capri islands

Vesuvius crater
A visit to the crater of Vesuvius volcano is a thrilling experience. Located just a short distance from Naples, Vesuvius is known for its catastrophic eruption in 79 A.D. that buried the Roman cities of Pompei and Ercolano (Herculaneum). Visitors can head to the crater along well-maintained paths, enjoying wonderful views of the Gulf of Naples and the surrounding region. At the summit, the crater reveals its immense size and geological significance. Mount Vesuvius can be reached by taking the Circumvesuviana train at the Central Station of Naples, stopping at Ercolano, and then getting a bus.

Eating and drinking

Ranked among the best places in the world for food, the Campania region is a culinary paradise. The world-famous Neapolitan pizza, with its crispy crust and fresh mozzarella, is a must-try at iconic pizzerias like Michele, Brandi, Sorbillo, Di Matteo, many of which are within walking distance from the Conference Center. Equally tempting are all pasta variants (e.g. seafood spaghetti with clams and lupin beans) and, of course, the buffalo mozzarella. Naples is also known for its typical pastries/cakes/sweets, including pastiera (made with ricotta cheese, eggs, and flavored with orange and lemon), sfogliatella (crispy outside and creamy inside), and babà (a cake soaked in rum syrup, which is impossible to resist). The area also produces exceptional wines, such as Aglianico, Taurasi, Lacryma Christi, all perfect accompaniments to a delicious meal. No visit to Naples is complete without a glass of Limoncello, a refreshing liquor prepared with Amalfi Coast lemons, and an iconic Neapolitan espresso.

Eating and drinking
Eating and drinking

Climate/weather in September

Naples benefits from the Mediterranean Climate. At the end of September, the daytime temperatures are usually warm, ranging from 20 to 28°C. Nights can be slightly cooler. Sunshine is pretty typical, whereas rains are sporadic. The sea remains warm, and swimming is possible.

Pictures © Effe Erre Congressi Srl